Does anyone know where I can find a video or dvd on sewing baby doll clothes? I sew preemie burial gowns for?

Fri, Feb 5, 2010

I sew preemie burial gowns. I always have trouble turning the raw edges of the neck especially at the seams. I sure could use some tips from other sewers. I’ve been getting tips from doll clothes patterns, but I need some experienced guidance. Also, other than snaps and velcro do you have any other suggestions for closures? I’ve been sewing for over 30 years but I am a basic kind of sewer.

burial gowns, doll clothes patterns, guidance, raw edges, seams, sewers, velcro

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1 Comments For This Post

kay Says:
February 5th, 2010 at 12:00 pm

I’ve not seen one, but that doesn’t mean much, because I don’t sew doll clothes.

Depending on the pattern you’re working with, here are the likely choices I’d make:

1) shaped bias, used as a facing. This can be a little tricky to do, because you need to not stretch the bias tape as it’s applied, otherwise it will cause the neckline to roll away from the body. Shaping the bias first on a copy of the neckline, with steam iron and pins, will make this much easier. If you watch Martha’s Sewing Room (PBS or BYU), you’ll see them shaping bias for various purposes. Tight curves really need shaped bias rather than unshaped bias, imo.

2) make a facing for the pattern’s neckline — ye olde standard faced neckline, which can also finish the placket of your gown. Good step by step instructions in Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, which has had several editions… the one I’m looking at is copyright 1976, and the section starts on p. 192, and runs to about 209. If your library doesn’t have a copy, they’re usually cheap from used book dealers. Rather than finish the lower edge of the facing, consider just pinking it. It’s a no-bulk finish that helps prevent show-through. I’d also consider using a very lightweight fusible tricot interfacing as the facing fabric, then after turning the facing to the inside, just fuse the interfacing to the inside of the garment. If I did that, I’d use a fusible tricot meant for sheer fabrics like:
http://sewexciting.blogspot.com/2008/11/sheer-elegance-interfacing-by-pamela.html or
http://www.fashionpatterns.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=62
(I use the second one; haven’t tried the first, but have heard good things about it).

3) completely line the bodice — bodice and sleeves if the sleeves are cut on to the bodice. This also would finish the placket edges. Especially if it’s something like a bodice and a gathered skirt garment, this is fast and easy. Do it like an "all in one facing" in the Reader’s Digest book.

As to closures, I’d probably do buttons and loops or buttons and buttonholes, but I have a machine that makes nice buttonholes, so they’re fast and easy for me. Shirt-type buttons can be sewn on easily with a zigzag machine. Would buttons and loops interest you? I’ve got a really easy method to make them, using elastic thread or serger chain, where they always come out nicely spaced. Click on my avatar to drop me an email.

Cheap sources of small buttons: http://www.tinyzippers.com/dollbuttons.html
http://www.homesew.com/DollButtons.html
http://www.quiltware.com/dollbuttons.asp

Another choice might be a simple ribbon tie at neck and waist.

Joan Hinds has a basic doll dress pattern on the web that’s finished nicely — I know a net-buddy who collects dolls thinks highly of Joan’s patterns: http://www.infinitefreedom.com/challenges-pages/dropped-waist-directions.html

How are you pressing those shoulder seams? Because they’re so small, and you need them really flat, I’d probably press them on a piece of wood covered with muslin, rather than on the usual padded ironing board. Finger press the seam open, then put it on the muslin-covered board, seam allowances up. Using a small paintbrush, paint the seam with a little water, just to dampen it, let it soak in for a few seconds, then press with an iron of the appropriate temperature until the fabric is dry. Let it cool on the board before moving it. As far as choice of boards go, a scrap of plywood that’s been sanded smooth, or a wooden cutting board that hasn’t been oiled or a scrap of 2×4 without resin pockets would work well. If you’ve got any local cabinet makers, see if they might have a scrap block of maple or alder they’d give you… something about 2×4x1/2" or so would be perfect. and a thicker scrap would work just as well.

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